07.09.2009 – Carbondale, Colorado - The acclaimed rock climber and free soloist John Bachar, 52, died Sunday, July 5, in an unroped fall while climbing on the Dike Wall near his home in Mammoth Lakes, California. Bachar was one of rock climbing’s greatest pioneers, a visionary, whose strict code of climbing ethics, which included free soloing and respect for the natural environment, influenced generations of climbers.
Bachar began climbing as a teenager around Los Angeles. After graduating from high school, he moved to Yosemite Valley to become the greatest rock climber of his time.
A natural on rock and highly disciplined - he could do a one-arm pull up while holding a 12.5 pound weight in his free hand - Bachar quickly rose through the ranks and began climbing ropeless in the early 1980s. His ascents included routes so difficult and dangerous - such as Yosemite’s Nabisco Wall (5.11c) and New Dimensions (5.11a) - that even climbing''s elite had to take pause. In 1981, Bachar issued a famous "bounty," offering $10,000 to anyone who could keep up with him, ropeless, on the rock for a single day. There were no takers.
At the time of Bachar''s boldest exploits, professional climbing didn’t exist. Bachar, however, elevated the sport to the point where it gained national attention, and through spots in television commercials, product endorsements and even a feature about him in Rolling Stone, he became America''s first real professional climber. During his nearly 30 years of soloing, Bachar estimated that he had climbed 1.5 million feet of rock without a rope, and up to 5.13 in difficulty.
Although he suffered a broken neck in an auto accident in 2006, Bachar trained himself back into fitness, and continued to solo at a high grade and designed rock shoes for the company Acopa, of which he was a part owner.
While the details of his fall may never be known - a hold may have broken or he might have slipped - his death stunned the climbing community who considered him an icon, the Michael Jordan of rock climbing. He is survived by his father, John, and son, Tyrus, 12. A petition has begun to ask President Obama to acknowledge Bachar''s contributions and send a letter of condolence to the family. To participate, go to www.whitehouse.gov/contact/ For subject click “other,” then write in your request.
ADDITIONAL ARTICLES ON JOHN BACHAR
“Being Bachar.” Rock and Ice, March, 2008.
http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=10&type=featart
“Even Anarchy Has Too Many Rules.” Rock and Ice, December, 2005.
http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=13&type=tnb
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